A note from Ashleigh

Everything I make is hand-fabricated, and set with natural stones that were formed in the ground rather than manufactured to a tolerance. That is the whole point of them — and it also means they have real physical limits. This page is here so you know what those limits are, what I stand behind, and what I can do for you if something goes wrong.

Gemstone sourcing

The gemstones sold here have been purchased from legitimate sources. Ashleigh Branstetter LLC guarantees that these gemstones are natural and conflict free, based on my own knowledge as a GIA Graduate Gemologist and on the representations of my suppliers.

Living with natural stones

Hardness in gemstones is measured on the Mohs scale, and it varies enormously — more than most people expect. A few of the stones I work with, and what they ask of you:

• Pearls (Mohs 2.5–4). Organic and soft. Perfume, hairspray, lotion and even perspiration will dull the nacre over time. Put pearls on last and take them off first, and wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing.
• Turquoise (Mohs 5–6) and opal (5.5–6.5). Porous and brittle. Both can crack or shatter from a single knock against a hard surface, and both are sensitive to oils, solvents and sudden changes in temperature.
• Moonstone (Mohs 6–6.5). Harder than turquoise, but it has perfect cleavage — meaning it can split cleanly along an internal plane if struck at the wrong angle.
• Topaz (Mohs 8). Very hard, and yet it also has perfect basal cleavage. Hardness and toughness are not the same thing.
• Tourmaline, amethyst and quartz (Mohs 7–7.5). Durable for everyday wear, though a faceted edge can chip, and a heavily included stone is more fragile than a clean one.
• Diamond (Mohs 10). The hardest natural material there is — and it can still chip on impact.

Practical habits that prevent most of the damage I see: take jewelry off before sleeping, swimming, gardening, cleaning or lifting weights; store pieces separately rather than loose together, so a harder stone cannot scratch a softer one; put jewelry on over a bed or a carpeted floor rather than over tile, stone or a sink; and have settings checked once a year if you wear a piece often.

What the warranty covers

I warrant my work against defects in manufacture for 90 days from delivery — a failed solder joint, a stone that was not secured properly, a clasp that was made wrong. Send it back and I will inspect it, tell you honestly what I find, and put it right at no charge.

What the warranty does not cover

Ashleigh Branstetter LLC is not responsible for breakage, chipping, cracking, loss of a stone, or damage arising from impact, dropping, abrasion, chemical or cosmetic exposure, extreme temperature, improper storage, alteration or repair by another jeweler, or ordinary wear over time. A stone that meets a tile floor, a countertop or a car door may break regardless of how carefully it was set, and a soft or porous stone may break from a knock that a diamond would shrug off. Damage of this kind is not a manufacturing defect.

I will always inspect a returned piece myself and tell you plainly which of the two it is.

Repair and restoration

Accidents happen, and I would far rather mend a piece than see it sit in a drawer. Whatever the cause, and however long you have owned it, send it to me. I will evaluate it and quote you the full cost including shipping, and no work begins until you have seen that figure and approved it in writing. A broken or chipped stone can usually be replaced; a bent setting can usually be reshaped; patina and polish can be refreshed.

Sending a piece in

Email hello@ashleighbranstetter.com before sending anything, and I will confirm where to ship it. Please insure the package for the full value of the piece — I cannot be responsible for items lost or damaged in transit to me.

Questions about a specific piece, or about whether a stone suits how you live? Write to me. I would always rather have that conversation before you buy than after something breaks.